The Importance of Surfers Wave knowledge for Coastal Management

The management of coastal resources is complex with not only multiple ocean users and  stakeholders to consider  but also the complexity of the interaction between the ocean and land from the littoral zone to nearby community and conurbations. It has been extensively recognised that there is a need for both expert and local knowledges in order to create effective plans and policies for these areas (and other areas) and this is particularly the case when accommodating the complex and interrelated issues that relate to the sustainability.  

A recent research paper by Dan Reineman of Stanford University published in the journal Marine Policy outlines the importance of surfers wave knowledge for coastal management.    It also identifies wave knowledge as a unique form of knowledge on a par with other recognised forms of local knowledge. Dan describes wave knowledge as:  

…a body of understanding of the dynamic oceanographic and environmental conditions in the coastal ocean acquired through experience, which enables surfers to predict short-term and mid-term changes to those conditions and informs their surfing-related actions.

The paper is based on  two surveys of over a 1000 respondents in California. Questions in the survey included general demographics of the respondents, questions relating to respondents participation in surfing and well as more specific questions about the surf spots respondents were familiar with.  The survey also had a number of open ended questions prompting respondents to define wave knowledge.  Themes that were drawn from these responses included, situational awareness, interpretative ability, knowledge for action, experience in ocean, place specificity and value of wave knowledge.

Dan points out that there is an increasing call for surfers and their wave knowledge to be incorporated into coastal planning and this is magnified by the increasing impacts of climate change on wave resources and on the broader coastal environment.  The paper identifies the following areas of particular importance:   

 

• Shoreline stabilization to protect property or infrastructure Sea walls or other armouring that could affect sediment erosion, loading, and transport in the near shore environment as well as cause wave reflection
• Other types of coastal and shore line development on or in the nearshore environment, e.g., dune stabilization, beach nourishment, and other activities that affect beach sediment supply;
• Coastal watershed management that could affect delivery of sediment to the near shore environment, e.g., coastal lagoon mouth management, watershed hardening,etc;
• Coastal or watershed activities that could adversely impact coastal water quality;
• Offshore or onshore development of jetties, breakwaters, groins, or other structures that could influence the propagation of waves, e.g., through the reflection or refraction of waves or the transport or accumulation of sediment;
• Development of harbors, ports, or other large infrastructure that could disrupt, displace, or destroy  surf-spots entirely

The paper marks an important step forward in formally defining the importance of surfers wave knowledge for coastal management. As a stakeholder group directly engaged with the ocean environment surfing communities locally, as traditionally defined by their local surf breaks or more broadly as communities of interest connected electronically have a significant role to play in transitions towards sustainability.

 

References

Reineman, D. (2016) The utility of surfers’ wave knowledge for coastal management, Marine Policy 67:139-147