The management of coastal resources is complex with not only
multiple ocean users and stakeholders to
consider but also the complexity of the
interaction between the ocean and land from the littoral zone to nearby
community and conurbations. It has been extensively recognised that there is a need
for both expert and local knowledges in order to create effective plans and
policies for these areas (and other areas) and this is particularly the case
when accommodating the complex and interrelated issues that relate to the
sustainability.
A recent research paper by Dan Reineman of Stanford
University published in the journal Marine Policy outlines the importance of surfers
wave knowledge for coastal management. It also identifies wave knowledge as a unique
form of knowledge on a par with other recognised forms of local knowledge. Dan
describes wave knowledge as:
…a body of understanding of the dynamic oceanographic and
environmental conditions in the coastal ocean acquired through experience,
which enables surfers to predict short-term and mid-term changes to those
conditions and informs their surfing-related actions.
The paper is based on
two surveys of over a 1000 respondents in California. Questions in the
survey included general demographics of the respondents, questions relating to
respondents participation in surfing and well as more specific questions about
the surf spots respondents were familiar with. The survey also had a number of open ended
questions prompting respondents to define wave knowledge. Themes that were drawn from these responses
included, situational awareness, interpretative ability, knowledge for action,
experience in ocean, place specificity and value of wave knowledge.
Dan points out that there is an increasing call for surfers
and their wave knowledge to be incorporated into coastal planning and this is
magnified by the increasing impacts of climate change on wave resources and on
the broader coastal environment. The
paper identifies the following areas of particular importance:
- Shoreline stabilization to protect property or infrastructure Sea walls or other armouring that could affect sediment erosion, loading, and transport in the near shore environment as well as cause wave reflection
- Other types of coastal and shore line development on or in the nearshore environment, e.g., dune stabilization, beach nourishment, and other activities that affect beach sediment supply;
- Coastal watershed management that could affect delivery of sediment to the near shore environment, e.g., coastal lagoon mouth management, watershed hardening,etc;
- Coastal or watershed activities that could adversely impact coastal water quality;
- Offshore or onshore development of jetties, breakwaters, groins, or other structures that could influence the propagation of waves, e.g., through the reflection or refraction of waves or the transport or accumulation of sediment;
- Development of harbors, ports, or other large infrastructure that could disrupt, displace, or destroy surf-spots entirely
The paper marks an important step forward in formally
defining the importance of surfers wave knowledge for coastal management. As a
stakeholder group directly engaged with the ocean environment surfing
communities locally, as traditionally defined by their local surf breaks or
more broadly as communities of interest connected electronically have a
significant role to play in transitions towards sustainability.
References
Reineman, D. (2016) The utility of surfers’ wave knowledge
for coastal management, Marine Policy 67:139-147
Posts
